The Art of Bandhej: The Ties That Bind Tradition

In the heart of India’s textile heritage lies Bandhani,

a craft that turns cloth into poetry, and colour into

storytelling.

 

The process begins with a blank fabric whether it is cotton, silk, or georgette, each carefully selected for its ability to breathe, fall, and hold colour. Before any dye ever touches the textile, the design is first marked by hand using tiny dots. These dots are not random; they are the silent blueprint of the final artwork. Each one creates a mark on the fabric’s story

Once marked, the magic of tying begins. Every dot is pinched and tied tightly with fine thread, creating raised knots called "bheendi." This stage is intensely laborious, often involving thousands of ties, all done meticulously by hand. It’s a rhythm passed down through generations, mostly women whose skilful fingers move with practiced grace. These knots act as resist points, shielding the fabric beneath from the dye and holding the form of the design.

At Twenty Nine, we work closely with master dyers whose hands carry the wisdom of decades. We’ve met artisans who speak less with words and more with touch, the way they crumple the fabric between their fingers, the way they pause before tying the tiniest dot, as if listening to the cloth breathe.

Among the most delicate and appreciable forms of Bandhani is Rai Dana Bandhani. In this rare and labour intensive process, artisans use actual rai dana, minute mustard seeds, as the core around which the fabric is tied. The fabric is pinched around each seed and tightly bound with thread, creating micro-resist points that give Rai Dana its signature fineness and intricacy. A single garment can take several weeks to prepare, every knot is a study in patience and devotion. When the fabric is finally opened, what emerges is a constellation of near-invisible dots.

The tied fabric is then immersed in dye, soaked in colour that spreads and settles into the cloth’s fibres. If the design calls for multiple hues, the fabric is dyed in stages, always beginning with the lightest shade and moving towards deeper tones. Between each dip, new sections may be tied or untied, depending on the intricacy of the pattern. Traditional Bandhani features bold colours: earthy reds, haldi yellows, deep maroons, indigos, and vibrant greens, each rooted in ritual and symbolism. The hues are not just pigments; they are blessings, borrowed from soil, spice, sky, and bloom.

Once dyed, the cloth is left to dry under the open sky, before the knots are slowly opened. This is the most awaited moment, the reveal. What was once a cluster of tiny ties becomes an intricate mosaic of patterns, from delicate dots to elaborate motifs that dance across the fabric. If done traditionally, no two pieces are ever exactly alike; each carries the fingerprint of its maker and the spirit of the hands that shaped it.

Bandhani speaks of time, of care, and of the beauty that comes from waiting. It is the silence between two waves, the stillness in a storm of thread. It is a story that unfolds knot by knot, colour by colour, breath by breath.

At Twenty Nine, we celebrate this timeless artistry by reimagining it for the modern wardrobe, creating pieces that honour craft while embracing contemporary silhouettes. In every pleat, drape, and detail, the legacy of Bandhani lives on. With every tie, a memory is preserved. With every dye, a tradition continues. With every garment, a story is reborn.